The ability to not get hopelessly lost in Jerusalem’s Old City felt like the pinnacle of achievements once upon a time. One always knows that there is more to see, but the new Enjoy Jerusalem website really proves the point.
A little-known treasure for the visiting set, and a little-visited site for anyone not from the Silwan neighbourhood of Jerusalem, the spring (Ayin) is rather an oasis set amid a somewhat less tranquil area where excavations to find the lost ‘City of David’ mean increasing pressure on residents.
Above the hustle and bustle, a stroll along the top of Jerusalem’s Old City walls means a flip of perspective; like seeing things from the inside out. That goes for everything from the markets to the communal church gardens, the old battlements and the city’s history as a fortress, as well as the back side of the Israeli police headquarters, all smushed into one square kilometre.
The party gets going in earnest after the night prayer, just before 10pm. But head to the Old City a little earlier to make the most of your wander-about and take in the new phenomenon of lights blazing up the arched alleyways. Continue reading
A river runs through it. Okay, not quite, but the Bethlehem Museum does literally have an old Roman water pipe bisecting the building.
The museum’s current director, artist Inass Yassin, commenting on the recent exhibit ‘Unlike Other Springs,’ imagines more than one iteration of the spring of the show’s title.
Meet “Bedouie” the 5,000 year old Olive tree that lives in the village of Walaja southwest of Bethlehem.
Take a tour of the Herbawi Textile Factory, Palestine’s last maker of the classic Kuffiyeh.
Soundscapes of Palestine on the sea bounce through your earbuds, conjuring scenes from the Karmel Market; the old mayor sitting in a bustling coffee shop (my imagined version was in fes and suit jacket), the owner fiddling with the dial on the new radio as passersby lingered to hear the latest news broadcast by Radio Palestine.